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| Sealer Type | Typical Duration | Hardens surface |
| Polyester | >Last minimum of 10 Years | Yes |
| Acrylic | >1-2 Years | No |
| Silicas/Silicates | >3-5 Years | No |
Any concrete that you do not want to keep for a long time should not be treated. Otherwise when the sealer hardens the concrete, it makes it more difficult to break up, cut and remove. Examples of concrete you may not want to keep are slabs that have been broken by heavy trucks and concrete to which a deicer has been applied. These broken pieces or crumbling pieces of concrete should be removed and repoured.
Concrete that is to be sealed must first be cleaned and degreased. Pressure-washing is usually done first and then any stain removal. Some deep stains (10 yr car oil drip) may come out on the top, but after the sealer is applied, the heat from sun etc will draw oils from deeper concrete to the surface so that stain reappears again. This is something to be aware of. Since the sealer needs to penetrate the concrete, a cleaner/degreaser is recommended to remove oils that may keep the sealer from going into the pores of the concrete to be sealed.
Under normal conditions, late spring, early summer or cooler days in summer, and fall are best times to apply sealer. It needs dry enough weather for concrete to dry out from pressure-washing and cool enough weather that the sealer will not flash dry on the surface before it's had time to soak into the concrete. The concrete sealer needs to be applied quickly and evenly so that the concrete sealer is overlapped wet to wet and doesn't band on the concrete surface. While a person can seal their own concrete with a hand pump, for any large surface area it makes more sense to use an electric sprayer.
When water falls from the sky onto your concrete, the concrete needs to be able to shed the water. A healthy slope on the concrete is important. Also, the area where the water flows needs to be lower than the concrete. If there is dirt and grass bermed up onto the concrete or along its edge then the water will not be able to escape in a timely manner. Putting even a shallow trough about 4-6 inches wide around the concrete will go a long way to keeping the concrete cleaner. This trough can be filled with coarse stone or rocks.
The ground and concrete above another pad of concrete must drain water properly away from lower concrete. Muddy water flowing onto the top part of a driveway will get the rest of the driveway dirty below it. If the concrete is cleaned and sealed, it makes sense to take simple steps to keep contaminants from getting it dirty again.

At some homes, the downspouts are disconnected from drains to help keep the city's sewers from overflowing into the rivers. Water from downspouts need to be directed away from the foundation (for sure) and hopefully not onto the driveway. Otherwise the driveway to get dirty from the gutter contents and soak up the water. Again, concrete is not water-proof by itself. This downspout water in sufficient volume will erode and may discolor the concrete with impurities in the water from the gutter's contents.
If necessary, downspouts can be connected to a "flexy" elbow and then to a plastic downspout to run the water over and away from concrete and foundations.
